The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the World

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Christina Clark
Christina Clark

A seasoned esports analyst and former professional gamer, sharing strategies to help players excel.